Since I’m
leaving Nicaragua for the States in 3 weeks and, since, before that, on
November 3, I’m having still another birthday (3 in total) in Nicaragua, and
since age loomed large as an issue for me before I come here, and since older
people in the States wonder if Peace Corps is really for them, and finally,
since I’ve settled a few things about age in my 2 years here, it seems a good
idea to share some thoughts on the subject.
To begin, before I left the
States I was worried about being what Peace Corps calls an “older volunteer”,
defined as anyone over 50. Even that
threshold age was a challenge since I came to Nicaragua at age 66 and will
leave at 69. Are they kidding? Fifty isn’t “older” at all. But 66 arguably is. What was I worried
about? Not my health which had always
been good. My ability to learn a new
language was a concern in the face of all those urban legends that say older
people can’t learn languages very easily (I did some research on this and all I
could find by way of studies were comparisons of the language learning
abilities of, say, 3 year olds and college students in which the 3 year olds
trump the students. I’d be interested to
know if there are studies about 65 year olds.) But I worried most about social
isolation. I figured the younger
volunteers would like me well enough, but not care to hang out with me much. Before
I left, I saw a YouTube video of volunteers in training in some country doing
one of the silly getting-to-know-you exercises for which Peace Corps is famous,
in this case a dance. There, right in
front of my eyes, was an older volunteer gamely putting on her best face to
join in the fun, and missing by a mile.
I winced in sympathy and shame.
So how was it? From the point of view of working in
Nicaragua my age was nothing but a plus.
I wouldn’t say that Nicaragua is a traditional culture to the extent
that the aged are revered for their wisdom, but, in contrast to the
marginalized position of older people in the States, seniors here are equal
members of the community. Teenagers don’t avoid them. Everyone talks to them. They work like
everyone else. When they get really old,
they stay in the family with no apparent annoyance from the younger family
care-takers. They are referred to with
kindness—“mi abuelita”—my little grandmother.
I don’t have family here of course, but people call me “madre”, a term I
feared, with my US defensiveness, might be an insult to my wrinkles, but, no,
it’s a term of respect.
Professionally those wrinkles
conferred an automatic deference the younger volunteers needed to earn. At my school I was an assumed expert even
though the truth was that I had no experience teaching English as a foreign
language, a fact I kept to myself. It’s hard to document, but I always felt
respected here in part because I am foreign and in part because I am old. Although, difficult as it is, people can get
their minds around foreign young people traveling around without their
families, they are blown away by my ability to navigate another country when
all their experience of their own seniors is of people ever more sedentary.
They are amazed by my energy (thanks to my great fortune in having grown up
with excellent health care.) Nevertheless, as I have said before, they offer me
seats on the bus, a not unsubstantial benefit which the wrinkles also earn.
Peace Corps takes terrific
care of all volunteers but us older ones in particular. I can’t walk into the medical office without
someone wanting to check my blood pressure. I get all the meds I took in the
States. The people in charge listen to
me. And I hear that Peace Corps wants
more older volunteers because we have skill sets. In Peace Corps Nicaragua, at
least, there is no liability to being an “older volunteer”.
As far as my social life with
other volunteers is concerned, I made a point during training to get to know
the younger ones. I really wasn’t
looking to become a surrogate mom. I
needn’t have worried. Younger volunteers
have their own moms and, unlike in years past, they stay in close contact with
home. They belong to that generation
that likes their parents, has remained tight with them all through
college and, thanks to the miracles of the internet, Skype, and relatively
cheap telephone service, they talk with parents at least weekly, sometimes
daily.
By the end of training I knew everyone fairly
well, but, as we headed off to our very separate sites, I could tell I was on
my own. Generally no one called, wanted to visit, wanted to travel together,
but, to be fair, I didn’t try to be in contact either. That is because I
carried an ageist assumption from the States that they wouldn’t want to do
those things with an older volunteer. The exception was one young volunteer who
vowed to call me every Sunday night to
exchange experiences. And she did. When vacation time came, she and I visited
each other and traveled some together.
That first year was pretty lonely and she saved my life. In the second year something changed with the
other volunteers as well.
What changed, I think, was
the shared accumulation of responses to difficult situations. We ended up having so much more in common in
terms of what service brought so that differences such as age became less
noticeable. (Take as an example the number of volunteers here who have had
dengue. Now, that makes for a fraternity.)
Also as I got to know volunteers better I discovered that I have more in common
with some of them than I thought. There
are some very interesting people in Peace Corps, readers and theorizers, people
who have been thinking about things. I
would be fortunate to have many of them as friends in the States.
Sometimes I am bothered by an
unhappy thought that maybe I am not “acting my age”, that because the only
Americans I am in contact with here are young, I am aping them in some unseemly
way. I am sometimes mildly shocked when
I look in the mirror and remember, yes, I am almost 70. How I feel conflicts
with the received social weight of those words.
But then I think that this is one of the gifts of the dramatic
reorientation that my Peace Corps service has given me. All kinds of things are
not as they once seemed, so why not age, too?
What all this has taught me
is that the ageism of the States doesn’t have to apply. (And I need to repeat that I was ageist, too,
to the extent that I assumed that my age would overshadow any other
qualifications I might have as a friend.) What one needs, though, are some
amazing young people and maybe something in common like work or study or a
volunteer effort. Will I find those in
the States when I go home? I’ll have to
see, but I think that at least my attitude about these things has improved a
lot. I am more open to the possibility of
friendships with young people so, I have to believe, they will come my way.